Tag Archives: trimming natural hair

Trimming Natural Hair and Length Retention

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I straightened my hair about two weeks ago (see that post here). Although I “search and destroy” regularly, my ends were desperately in need of a trim as it had been 10 months since my last professional one. So, the Monday morning after straightening my hair, I reached out to my stylist Tameeka (aka Jaded Tresses) to see if she would be in her NJ location that night. I was hoping that she might be able to slip me in between her other appointments.

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Well, it turned out that it was her son’s birthday and she wasn’t working that night. I was totally bummed, but understood. However, later that day, Tameeka texted me that she was going to Sam’s Club in Edison and couldn’t come to NJ in good conscious without trying to hook me up.  So, she asked if I could meet her at the salon later! Y’all … I was on YouTube trying to figure out how to self-trim when I got the text (and, she suspected that is what I would do)!! LOL!! I was ecstatic that I wouldn’t have to take on that task myself!!

So, I met Tameeka at the salon in South Orange, NJ, where she usually works Monday nights. And, in like 5 minutes flat, she cleaned up my ends and made me a very happy lady.

Left: Prior to trim; Right: After trim

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My hair felt sooooo much better after that trim!!  The thing that I love about Tameeka is that she really listens, understands, and respects my length goals and that when I say that all I want is a small trim, that is what she does. I’m sure other stylist would have tried to chop several inches off of my hair due to the thinner perimeter and would claim that my ends are not healthy, but that has NEVER been an issue with Tameeka. She never says, “Oh, you should take more off” or “your ends are unhealthy” or “It would look better like … .” No, she respects that I know MY hair and really evaluates the condition, and not just the aesthetics, of hair to determine what it needs. And, she has never taken off more than an inch when I have requested a trim only. A non-scissor happy stylist? That’s priceless for me y’all.

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TRIMMING NATURAL HAIR

Anywho, since we’re talking about trimming, I figured I’d take this opportunity to discuss my thoughts on a couple of questions that I’ve seen related to trimming natural hair and trimming in general.

1.  Do naturals need a blunt perimeter/even cut/ends?

In my opinion, if you wear your hair in a curly state the majority of the time, no. I don’t trim, cut my hair to keep my ends even. I trim to eliminate damaged ends that are excessively weathered, knotted and/or split. I do this with regular search and destroy (S&D) missions (usually on wash day) and a professional trim every 6-12 months. I trim in this way because, if I don’t, the damaged ends will inevitably cause collateral damage (i.e. more splits, knots, and weathering), because the “bad” hair snags on healthy adjacent strands and causes friction to the cuticle.

Another reason I don’t worry about a totally blunt/even perimeter is because hair tends to grow at different rates. The front and lower back half of my hair grow a lot faster than my crown. So, I accept that my hair does not grow out evenly or into a blunt shape. What I do try to do is keep the longest layer not too much longer than my shorter crown. When I get trims, I ask Tameeka to trim more off of the longest layer and less off of the shorter layers, to gradually thicken my perimeter. Since I wear my hair in updos and twist or braid and curls the vast majority of the time, my irregular curl pattern and length differences are disguised.

2.  Does trimming the hair stunt or encourage growth?

It does neither. Hair grows from the scalp and is dead the minute it “sprouts” from the scalp. Trimming eliminates weathered, thinned, split and knotted ends. It makes the hair appear healthier, neater, and more aesthetically pleasing to some. It helps reduce and prevent the continuous cycle of splits and breakage. However, it doesn’t encourage growth. Some may call it semantics. However, I want to state for the record that what trimming actually does is help prevent continued breakage, which impacts length retention and can make it seem like the hair is not growing. By trimming damaged ends, the hair will be better able to retain the length that grows, which some see as “encouraging growth.”

That being said, if you constantly trim and hair grows at an average of 1/2 an inch a month, you may trim off all or most of the growth, which will make it seem as if your hair isn’t growing. For example, if your hairs grows an average of a 1/2″ a month, and you get a 1″ trim every 3 months, you are only retaining a 1/2″ of growth instead of 1-1/2″. If your ends are healthy and well-maintained, that is totally unnecessary. This is why some may think that trimming stunts growth. But again, it’s not the growth, it’s the retention that is being impacted by trimming.

So, in conclusion, trimming (or not trimming) impacts length retention, not growth, depending on how it is used. And that’s all I have to say about that.

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How do you trim? How often do you trim?

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Split Ends: A Cautionary Tale

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M of Hair and Other Stuff

I waited too long to trim my hair. No doubt, I was trying to hang on to some length or something silly like that. I’ll not beat around the bush though, it’s not worth it. By the time I got my hair trimmed, the hairdresser had to take off about about 2-3 inches of brillo-pad like hair. That STILL was not enough because my hair continued to act a donkey and felt hard and rough. This was irking me to no end so I began to really look at my hair strand by strand.

Upon inspection, I saw a jungle of split ends, bent (damaged) strands and single strand knots. A head FULL! I thought I had been doing so well with taking care of my hair. :-(. In order to do something about it, I started trimming individual strands (Search and Destroys) like a lunatic. I even inadvertently cut off healthy hair! I clearly got carried away y’all! That was in March. It’s now May. I just got about 2 more inches cut off this Month. That’s a total of 4-5 inches in 2 months.

late summer 2011

May 2012: Pre-trim

May 2012: Post-trim

Shameful. The funny thing is, by trying to hold on to a little bit of hair, I lost much more than I needed (or wanted) to lose. If I had just gotten it trimmed when I first noticed something was awry, I wouldn’t be writing this post now (that lesson could preach, but I digress.).

To be fair, I’ve had problems retaining moisture, which has contributed to the terrible condition of my hair. Seems like I’m starting from the beginning, yet again, but that’s ok. You live and you learn. I’m hoping that others will learn from my mistake. If you notice your hair needs a trim (split ends, dry ends, breakage, knots, etc.), do not wait, do not think, do not stop, but RUN to your nearest salon (or do it yourself) and get that junk cut off! Your hair will thank you for it. 🙂

(p.s. One last thing. I think it’s important to note that trimming your ends will not always get all of the damaged hair, especially in the interior of your hair, so search and destroys are crucial! You may also need to face that fact that some hair damage requires more than a trim. It might require an actual cut. For those who aren’t as skilled, there are definitely times you need to seek professional help! I did.)

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When is the last time YOU had a trim? Do you know the difference between when you need a trim vs. an actual cut?