Chicoro Lead Hair Theory (Kind of) Update



Curly Nikki recently re-posted my How I Retain Length article from 2012 and I thought it was perfect timing to share a sort of, kind of update on the Chicoro “Lead Hair” Theory experiment I wrote about in 2011!!

So, I was going through some of my hair pics from 2010 and came across the pics on the left. They are from late December 2010, a few short months before I joined the Curly Nikki/Kim Coles Grow Out Challenge with a goal to grow my hair to waist length. The shots are before and after a self-trim. The picture on the right is from September 2013.

As you can see from all of the pics, my perimeter is thin and the bulk of my hair is a few inches higher. As I’ve previously mentioned, I believe that this is a result of my crown being more breakage-prone and slower growing than my nape. Also, my nape is barely wavy and my crown is curly (probably a 3c), so my perimeter really looks thin when my hair is worn in natural styles. Now, I would love to have a full perimeter, but just don’t think my hair grows or falls that way. Therefore, it was fortunate for me that I learned about Chicoro’s Lead Hair Theory a couple of years ago and accepted my Fairytale Ends.

Now, the reason this is “kind of” an update to that old post is because I haven’t totally followed the Chicoro method of “goal point” trimming. She actually espouses allowing the “lead hair” to grow an inch or two past the bulk of the hair, but then cutting the hair blunt once it reaches the “goal point.”  However, I decided to just get minimal trims every 6 months or so. As long as my ends are healthy, I don’t concern myself with having a perfectly blunt and full perimeter. I almost never wear my hair entirely straight anyway and my goal is to retain as much healthy length as possible, even if my hair is, well … uneven. *lol*

The reason I am sharing this is to shed some light on uneven growth patterns versus breakage and methods of cutting/trimming the hair. In February 2011, I got a “trim” that turned into a blunt perimeter haircut (didn’t go to that salon again :/). But, after that haircut, I started getting trims only and my hair grew out unevenly again.

Length Check  (Feb 19, 2011)Feb 2011

Nov 2011Nov 2011

IMG_7548Dec 2012

Some might see my earlier pics and think it meant breakage and that my hair would just get shorter if I didn’t get a serious hair cut, taking off a few inches to make it blunt. But, as you can see from these pics, my crown did continue to retain length, although not at the speed of my longest area.

This proved to me that, in order to retain as much length as possible, I could continue to trim based upon the health and condition of my ends and not based upon the fullness/evenness of my perimeter, with one caveat. I try not to let the longest hair get more than a couple of inches longer than the bulk as it causes more tangling

I share this to say, if retaining max length is your goal and you don’t wear your hair straight the majority of the time, you may want to try trimming to eliminate damaged ends only and not for “bluntness.” Hair can be healthy and retain length/grow long without having a perfectly blunt/even “hemline.” That being said, if your ends are knotty, tangling, splitting into forests, or excessively dry and rugged, a trim is likely in order to prevent further damage ;). But that doesn’t necessarily mean that you have to trim all of your hair even to get rid of the damage. You can trim judiciously, eliminating the badly damaged ends and leaving the healthy hair behind. That’s the beauty of natural kinky, curly, coily hair! It doesn’t have to be perfectly blunt to look great!!

Quick length check.Oct 2013


Do you trim for healthy or even ends? Have you tried the Chicoro Goal Point Method of trimming? How did it work out for you?


13 responses »

  1. I had wanted to try Chicoro’s LHT when I first read about it but was thinking the same as you re: cutting away more hair than necessary.

    Therefore, I started just trimming off small pieces of hair that had either balls or splits. I rarely see the splits but I can feel the balls so on wash day when I go to twist/braid/etc. I feel for any damaged ends and just trim them.

    on Thanksgiving i finally! got the braid out I’ve been seeking without my ends looking all choppy


  2. Alwina here! Using this WordPress app to leave a comment. After reading your post, it makes me think of my most recent trim by our beloved “Curl Whisperer”. I really want my hair to grow and I’ve been trimming those ends with knots or splits as I see them, like Michelle does. Next time I get a trim trim, I will ask for only damaged ends to be removed vs. a blunt perimeter cut. Thanks for sharing!


    • Hey lady!! Yup, instead of asking for a cut, just ask for a trim of whatever amount (1/2 inch, inch, or just to trim split/knotted ends)! That’s what I did my last visit in June, because I got a cut/shaping in December and lost more hair that I wanted in the layering process. So, when I went in June, told Tameeka that I just wanted a trim. So, she took off very little. Since I’m trying to get to hip length, that’s what I’ll do for at least the next year.


  3. Hi there!
    I’m in the middle of a debate, giving my hair a serious cut bc the heathiest hair is inches longer than the unhealthy parts or just search and destroying. After reading this, I may not get the blunt cut I was dying for.


  4. I was just thinking about this seeing as how I finally henna(ed) over the weekend and was debating cancelling my hair appt because I feel that blunt cutting isn’t necessary. Sure my ends looks great but doesn’t seem to be helping my growth goals. This article helped me answer my question. Also do any of you ladies have any advice on trimming my hair myself? Thanks in advance!


    • Hey April a lot of ladies just trim their twists. I’ve done that. If u aren’t concerned with having perfectly even hair you can smooth wet hair with conditioner, detangle, twist and snip the ends. Naptural85 also has a few YT tutorials on self trimming that are pretty good


    • April, I agree with Michelle. You can trim twists and there are lots of YT videos on doing that. Or, you can do what both Michelle and I do, search and destroys on wash day. All we do is look/feel for split ends and knots and trim individual hairs to eliminate damage. I used to dry detangle while pre-pooing prior to washing and that’s when I did the majority of my trimming. But now I don’t really do that anymore, because I felt like I lost more hair that way and my new BnTnC technique and products are keeping my hair relatively detangled. So, usually do the S&Ds while styling or if I feel/see them after my hair is dry and out.


  5. So i think your trimming method is what I usually use when I trim my own ends, my hair seems to grow in layers too but since it’s usually curly i tend to not worry about it. But tomorrow I am going to get my hair pressed and since it’s been 3+ years since i’ve been to one, unfortunately i’m totally psyching (sp?) myself out lol. I’m afraid they’re going to want to even me out or trim everything even though I know not all my ends need trimming. 😦 I just keep hoping since it’s supposed to be a place that takes pride in natural hair care that they will let me live with a light dusting and let my layers fall where they may.


    • Joselyn, tell them that you just want a trim of your ends. Make sure that you examine your ends well to check for splits, knots. If they are fine and just a little dry or you just have a little on the ends and know exactly how much you want off (1/2 inch, inch, whatever), tell them that you do NOT want your hair trimmed into an even/blunt length. That you just want them to trim that specific amount all around. Tell them you want to see what they are trimming (don’t let them turn you away from the mirror where you can’t see what they are doing). It is YOUR hair. YOU are the one who has to deal with it everyday. It is not their right to do what they want. I went to a place to get my hair straightened and she wanted to cut it even … said it would look better. I was like, NOPE. My ends are fine, I trim them regularly and I rarely wear my hair straight. So, no thank you. And, I did not get one red lick cut. Now, that’s not as easy for you since you are actually going for a trim. But, be very specific in what you are requesting and that you want to see exactly what they are doing.



  6. Pingback: Cheveux qui s’affinent ou vitesses de pousse différentes ? Shelli de Hairscapades nous donne son avis ! | Nounoune et ses tifs

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