Got Skills?

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We have our first question in the GOC series, “Got Skills?”!!!

Chandra writes:

So, last night, I did my usual wash, detangle, and deep treatment session. During my detangling process, I realized how dry my hair is at the crown area, which is more than likely due to the color I added in April. I became so frustrated that I began having thoughts of either, a) cutting off all of my hair and starting from scratch or b) I’m afraid to even type these words but….yes….cave in and relax my hair (PMS has you thinking some crazy thoughts). I need input on what type of treatment I could use or styling technique to get this situation together. I trimmed my ends, so I know that will help but is there anything else I can do? Is it possible to henna my hair with permanent color in it? Would a protein treatment help? Needless to say…I am never coloring my hair again. I can tell the difference in curl pattern and the uncolored sections look and feel healthier than the processed sections.

Thank you for your help!

Shelli’s response:

That sucks Chandra. I gave up on highlights long ago as color processes involving lightening inevitably resulted in breakage for my fine hair, relaxed or natural. Thank goodness for grey hair and henna!  Okay, the first things that came to mind when I read your dilemma were:

  1. Are you using a pre-poo? If not, try an oil pre-poo for an hour on your next wash day. If you’ve never tried coconut oil, I would suggest it as it is the only oil with molecules small enough to penetrate the cortex of the hair and restore moisture from within the strand. If coconut oil does not agree with your hair, try EVOO oil instead. I’m suggesting a light oil first as your hair appears fine and something heavier, like EVOO, may weigh it down. You could also try mixing coconut or olive oil with another oil. JBCO, castor, grapeseed, watermelon or jojoba oil may be good options. (Check out this article that was just posted on bglhonline.net about pre-poos!) 
  2. Are you using a leave-in conditioner and sealing with an oil or butter? If not, I’d suggest incorporating both into your regimen.
  3. What kind of deep conditioner are you using? Is it a moisturizing or protein-based DC? If you are using a protein DC, it’s important to follow it with something moisturizing. Too much protein can be too much of a good thing as it can cause dry and brittle hair. My hair isn’t a fan of protein, so I use henna as a strengthening treatment instead. You may want to try a homemade DC or adding some food items to your current DC. Bananas (I picked up baby food bananas this weekend to try in a DC), honey, olive oil, castor oil, avocados (fruit or oil) are all touted for their conditioning properties and are great used alone, in combo or added to a commercial DC. Search “homemade deep treatments” to find a variety of recipes at your fingertips.
  4. You can use Body Art Quality (BAQ) henna over existing chemical color. But, it is imperative that it be BAQ henna or the results could be disastrous. You can also try cassia (so called, “clear” henna), which provides conditioning benefits similar to henna, but without the color. You may want to try this first if you want to preserve your color. The conditioning doesn’t last as long, but cassia only needs to be left on the hair for an hour and there is no dye release, so the process is a lot cleaner (no need for gloves or newspaper) and shorter. 
  5. DON’T RELAX IT*!! LOL!  Seriously, if you already have dryness, applying another chemical process on top of color would be the kiss of death! You’d almost definitely end up chopping it all off and starting from scratch! 

(*Seriously, was it that time of the month for all of us last week?!?! LOL!!)

So, what’s the verdict ladies? Chime in! Have you ever had to deal with dryness caused by a color process? Were you able to do “damage control?” If so, spill!

13 responses »

  1. I just read this from a group i’m in on FB called: Natural Hair Sorority & Fraternity – 10K Naturals

    Hair too dry? Rinse your hair after every wash with straight apple cider vinegar. This slightly-acidic rinse will strengthen the bonds in your cuticles, limiting the damage that causes overly porous hair (dry damaged hair). You can condition your hair, or wash it with your pH-balanced shampoo again, after the apple cider vinegar rinse to remove the odor.

    I’ve never tried this so I dont have a personal opinion but it may be helpful. Good luck and JUST SAY NO TO THE CREAMY CRACK!!!! LOL

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  2. Don’t relax it! Another chemical treatment will only make things worse. Your hair is beautiful! Be patient with it. I have had the urge to add color in a way that is similar to yours but I have not done it for this very reason. The last time I colored my hair, it looked great but it was SO drying! It was not worth it. I will just wait for more grays and highlight them with Henna..lol I was thinking of trying a spray in color because it wont be as damaging or permanent. I think that everything that Shelli suggested will help. I also like to add aloe vera juice in with my leave-in. I have been using Creme of Nature Rosemary & Lemongrass, coconut oil, aloe very juice, and a bit of Fermodyl 619. My hair has been LOVING it! You could also try baggying. That usually helps me when my hair is craving moisture. I wish the best of luck to you!!

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  3. Great suggestions ladies! I will definitely look into applying the cassia. I have tried the apple cider vinegar rinse but only once so I think I will try that too.Valencia, what exactly is Fermodyl 619? The aloe vera juice sounds good too. I’m pretty plain and simple when it comes to my hair products and usually use them without adding anything else. Sounds like I need to supplement what I’m already using to make up for dryness. My hair is very fine and I always thought that it could handle just about anything but perhaps I have to accept it and find other ways to accent what I have! Thanks again ladies! Very helpful stuff!

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    • Here is the Fermodyl story. You can get them in beauty supply stores or online (Amazon has them). They come in small vials. I like to mix them with my leave-in OR my moisturizing spray. There are 3 types 007 (fine limp hair) 0619 (dry/coarse hair) 0223 (chemically treated hair). I have never needed to use 0223 but the others work great (for me anyway). I learned about them from Moptop Maven. Anyway, here is the info. Good luck!

      The Fermodyl treatments were developed by specialised protein chemists working in the textile industry. These scientists created a molecule that has the capability to merge with hair fibres, interact with keratin, and restructure hair.

      The Fermodyl formulations use these protein molecules to penetrate right to the cortex of the hair shaft and then build from within. This chemistry is unique within the hair care industry.

      Standard hair products may improve hair strength by less than 1%. But by interacting with the hairs make up, the Fermodyl formulations improve the tensile strength of damaged hair by up to 15% and increase the diameter of the hair shaft by up to 20%. By increasing tensile strength, Fermodyl Interactives help weaker hair become stronger and help prevent breakage.

      The products have not been tested on animals and all the products and packaging are biodegradable and recyclable.

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  4. I forgot to ask this question: when doing the pre-poo (I use Vatika) how much am I supposed to use? lol Is my hair supposed to be drenched with it or coated with just enough to penetrate?

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  5. Girl say NO to the Perm… Its like putting salt on open wound. Coating your hair so that the oil can penetrate the hair shaft while pre-pooing is the best.

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  6. Thanks Marsha! At least I did that part right! I think most of my frustration came during the detangling process so I’m going to incorporate a detangler to help with that. I could really tell how dry it was then. I don’t want overwhelm myself so I am going to start with the acv rinse first and see how that works.

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  7. Chandra, I’ll give you the advice I gave Viv, I strongly suggest you dilute the ACV with water (and research dilution ratios) for your first rinse. I’ve read that straight ACV can be extra drying and a lot of people who use lemon juice or ACV in their henna experience excessive dryness after their treatments, even with DCs. ACV is more acidic than the natural pH of hair and can be drying. If you are already experiencing dryness, an ACV rinse may be disastrous. I haven’t read the article, but dry hair does not necessarily mean over-porous. In fact, it could mean the exact opposite. I would suggest using a different type of deep conditioner (not the cholesterol) first and a kimmaytube leave-in (leave-in conditioner of your choice + aloe juice + 2 tsp of 2 oils of your choice). The kimmaytube is pH balanced to the same acidity of “normal” hair and will shut down the cuticle of the hair without drying it. Just my two cents! Just don’t want your hair to become even drier. Again, make sure you research ACV rinses first (because everything I’ve read also contradicts using full strength ACV and suggests starting with monthly txs and increasing or decreasing frequency based upon your hair’s reaction) and make an informed decision about how you want to apply one. I’ve done them, but only to address frizz (which is caused by raised cuticles) not to address dryness. However, once I started using the kimmaytube leave-in, I found no need to use ACVs. I actually would use them more as a clarifying treatment to remove product residue in order to “restore” curls.

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    • This is what I have heard too. I’ve used ACV rinses for clarifying but not so much to combat dryness. And you definitely want to dilute it.

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  8. My hair is colored too. I do use henna but my hair is already red so it just refreshes my color. I make sure that the color treated area is saturated with conditioner. I also use the Kimmaytube leave-in conditioner. I have 4b hair texture.

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  9. I love u ladies!!! Wonderful information! I actually wanted to try the kimmaytube leave in…sooooo….looks like I will be racking up on products this Friday! I will let you know how it goes!

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  10. Pingback: GOC Updates: Chandra « hairscapades

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