Category Archives: My Regimen

A little about where I’ve been and where I am now.

Feb23

Hendigo No Go

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Hendigo No Go

Yeah, it’s time for a two step henna/indigo. I tried mixing my henna and indigo my last treatment to try and shortcut my normal process for getting my crown hair dark brown/black. Didn’t work out too well.


Look at my calico cat roots!

I probably had far more henna in the mix than indigo and my ratio should have been more indigo heavy. Regardless, I’m not even going to try a hendigo again. I’m just going to go with my normal two step process this weekend or the following. I will post a bulleted picture tutorial for those of you interested in how I do this once a month in the coming week or so!

Feb21

Sofn’Free Nothing But Mold & Hold Wax

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Sofn’Free Nothing But Mold & Hold Wax

When I wear my hair in styles that call for smooth edges, like buns and updos, I had come to rely on Eco Styler Olive Oil gel mixed with Shea Butter for hold. I would emulsify the shea butter in my palm and then add an equal amount of gel, mixing the two together. Next, I would smooth my edges with the mixture and tie them down with a silk or satin scarf until I got to work. This would usually hold my edges down for the morning, but by lunch time, the flyaways would start to make their presence known. And, by the end of the work day, my edges were usually pretty fuzzy.

So, although Eco and shea butter worked okay, I was still in search of something that could hold my edges and keep them looking relatively sleek all day. Therefore, back in November, I picked up some Organic Root Stimulator (ORS) Olive Oil Edge Control Gel. I’d read some good reviews about it that indicated that it worked really well to control, hold and smooth curly, frizzy, fuzzy edges. So, when I saw it in Sally’s, I grabbed a jar.

“Haaaaaaaaated it!” LOL! Just kidding. However, I wasn’t at all impressed. It really did nothing for me and was even less effective than the Eco and shea. So, I promptly returned it to Sally’s for a full refund (this one wasn’t going under my sink to collect dust).

Then, last month, Sofn’Free sent me a box jam packed with products from their new GroHealthy line for natural hair, Nothing But. Among the goodies was a nice size (8.8 0z.) jar of Mold & Hold Wax (compared to the 2.25 oz. ORS Edge Control gel). Here’s the rundown:

What they say:

Your natural hair has a mind of its own. But our Mold & Hold Wax lets you gently twist it around your little finger. Use it daily or after shampooing to create and maintain twists, locks or knots. And since it’s made from nothing but honest ingredients, there’s nothing flaky about it either.

  • Flake-free
  • Perfect for twists, locks, knots and braids
  • Infused with natural moisturizers

Ingredients
Water (Aqua), Ceteareth-20, PEG-7, Glyceryl Cocoate, Polyquaternium 46, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Polyglycery-3 Diisostearate, Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil, DMDM Hydantoin, Diazolidinyl Urea, Iodopropynel Butylcarbamate.

Directions
Apply to roots and twist with fingers or comb.

As evidenced by the side of the container, this product is also petrolatum, mineral oil, sulfate, paraben, colorant and phthalates (I don’t even know what that last one is!) free. However, it is not cone free. So if you are strictly CG, then you wouldn’t want to use this product as it contains dimethicone.

The Review:

The product is clear with very little scent (it has a slight smell that is almost indiscernible unless you sniff the jar and doesn’t linger). The consistency is thick, but not quite waxy. It is definitely thicker and more viscous than a heavy gel like Eco Styler or ORS Lock & Twist, but not as thick as beeswax.

I decided to try it on my edges two weeks ago when I was wearing a bunned style. I applied a very small amount, like that pictured above, to my fingertip. I emulsified it across several fingers and smoothed my edges. I then tied my hair down with a satin scarf. When I arrived at work, my edges were nicely smoothed. But, more surprisingly, at lunch and then at the end of the work day, they were still nearly frizz free!! Additionally, I didn’t experience any hardness, flakes or tackiness. I continued to use the product for the following three days with the same result.

So, the next test was on my pressed hair. I used a little bit of this every few days when my edges started to look a little fuzzier than I liked. After several applications, I still don’t have any flakes in my hair, stiffness, tackiness or the appearance of product build-up!! This is my hair Monday afternoon, after applying a little more Mold & Hold Wax to the edges and tying them down with my silk scarf while I fudged around on the computer all day.

Final Thoughts:
This Sofn’Free Nothing But Mold & Hold Wax is a keeper!!! I am sooo impressed with this stuff (probably because I didn’t expect to be)! The product is very effective for me and is free of a lot of the bad stuff. Though it contains a non-water soluble cone, I use DevaCare No Poo weekly. Since that contains coco-betaine and I also tend to “clarify” with a diluted sulfate shampoo once every 4-8 weeks, I don’t expect to have a problem with build up. Finally, the amount that I need to use to smooth my edges is so minimal and the jar is so huge, I expect that I won’t need to re-up on this for 6 months to a year! And, at only $8 a jar, even if I did, it wouldn’t break the bank! So yeah, if you are still on the hunt for an effective, reasonably priced edge control product that holds all day without stiffness, flakes, tackiness or the appearance of build up, you might want to check this one out!

Edited to Add: Right now, the Nothing But line is only available online and in select BSSs. However, the company website indicates that it will be available in Rite-Aids around the country beginning in April 2012.

(p.s. I plan on doing an “epilogue” on this product the next time I do twists! I mean, it was made for that purpose and if it holds them anything like it holds my edges, we are in business baby!!)


Feb13

Blow-Out Maintenance and Salon Review

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Blow-Out Maintenance and Salon Review

Yup, it’s still “straight.” *lol* The above pics are of my hair on Sunday afternoon after a morning of house cleaning.

Maintenance:
As I indicated the other day here, I’ve been wrapping the edges with a scarf, pin-curling the length and covering it all with a satin bonnet. I’ve been using a real silk scarf (instead of a satin hair scarf) as I think the real deal works better to keep my edges smooth and frizz-free.

The last two days, I applied a teeny tiny bit of Carol’s Daughter Healthy Hair Butter to the flyaways around my temples and edges and a little grapeseed oil to the length. I also lightly oiled my scalp with my EO mix on Sunday after taking down the pin-curls because my scalp was feeling a little dry. Even though I went light on the oil, I still think it weighed down my hair a little. So, I don’t think I’ll need to apply any more product for the next couple of days.

Jewels Studio Review:

Now for a recap of the salon experience. I haven’t had my hair pressed in about a year and three months. The last time I had it done was at a Dominican salon for a Dominican blow-out. The woman passed the flat-iron over my ends over and over again. I probably really needed a trim, but didn’t get one. Anyway, when they told me that I should get a trim at my next appointment, I told them that I won’t straighten my hair for a while again. The woman working on my hair said, “Why?” I said, because I wear my hair curly. Again, she asked, “Why?” I said, “Because I like it curly.” She said, “But I think it looks better this way, better straight.” Need I say more?

The Search
So, I hit the internet to search for salons catering to natural hair. I landed on Jewels Studio in South Orange, NJ after finding a few reviews on Yelp. I debated about whether I was going to get it pressed and trimmed. However, by Friday, I decided I would just get a blow-out and press so that I could trim it myself, if necessary. I just didn’t feel comfortable allowing someone who I’d never seen before go at my hair with a pair of scissors. My biggest concern? I anticipated that the stylist would want to “even” out my perimeter due to aesthetics and an assumption that my thinner, longest length was due to breakage. As this would be completely contrary to my goal of testing Chicoro’s Goal Point Method of trimming, I decided to not even go down that road.

The Pre-Service
I called on Friday to find that they had openings and booked my appointment for after work. I asked what products the stylist used and the receptionist advised Kenra and Paul Mitchell. I arrived for my 5:30 appointment at 5:40 (traffic and parking issue) to enter a small, but clean and cute salon. I was given a questionnaire to complete about my hair and visit. I quickly answered the questions and began to release my twists. The stylist, Jennifer, proceeded to touch and examine my hair. Her other stylist/assistant (?) walks to her with a comb … wait a minute, hold up… and Jennifer proceeds to tell her, “Wait, no, we’re not combing her hair dry. Comb it after you wash and condition it.” Okay, I was about to say …

The Shampoo Bowl
So all was going very well. But, then, here is where it started to get a little iffy. Both the stylist and the shampoo woman (umm, girl just doesn’t feel right ;) ) had long nails and I swear they were snagging in my hair. Also, I didn’t feel like the combing was consistently performed from ends to roots, nor was much conditioner used. When they were combing my ends, it was nowhere near as gently as I would have liked and I felt like they were raking them like leaves :( . When you finger comb your hair almost exclusively, it can be really anxiety-inducing to have someone combing through your hair. My body was tense throughout the entire process. As to products used, I haven’t a clue, but I think they were Kenra.

The Issue of the Trim
I’m still in the shampoo sink and Jennifer asks about the last time I had a trim. Heh heh heh … I know where this is going. I tell her that I haven’t had a professional trim in a year. She says that she’ll need to trim it to even it. I tell her, I don’t want it even; I don’t wear my hair straight and I’m not worried about it being even. I tell her that I conduct search and destroys to eliminate knots and splits on a weekly basis. She says that I don’t need to trim my hair that often. I explain my reasons. She then explains that she thinks she may need to trim it. She explains that she doesn’t mean trim it even, but “balance” it so that it will look right. I tell her, “Ummm, no.” So, she then says, let’s see what happens when I flat-iron it. *Side eye* “Okay.” *lol*

The Blow-Out and Flat-Iron
Now to the blow-out and flat-iron. When I was getting shampooed, I asked the stylist whether she used a heat protectant and she assured me absolutely. She indicated that she used heat protectant twice, for the blow-out and prior to flat-ironing. About that, I made an appointment for a blow-out and press and curl. When I was getting shampooed, the stylist indicated that I just needed a “blow out” and not a “press and curl,” because I have soft hair. So, I asked her what she meant and she advised that she would just use a flat-iron to straighten and curl it at the same time. Okay, sounds good to me.

For the blow-out, she used a round brush and concentrator nozzle on the blow dryer. However, she essentially just dried my hair with these tools, she wasn’t trying to get it straight with them. Once my hair was dry, she proceeded to flat-iron using a Baby Bliss, spraying heat protectant on each section before pressing. But, she seemed to spray it more at the roots than the ends. I thought it should have been the other way around given that the ends are the oldest and most fragile. When pressing, there was some steam at times too, which was due to the heat protectant. However, I couldn’t help but think, “Is this cooking my hair?” And then there was the smell … it wasn’t burning hair and it may have been the heat protectant, but it was still the smell of heat and hair. I was not fond of the “scent” and it didn’t dissipate until the next day. Oh, but the matter of a trim was not raised again.

The Bill
Finally, as I paid the $55 and $10 tip about 1 1/2 hours later, I belatedly asked her what heat setting she used on the flat-iron. “About 450,” she said. O_o!!! “Natural hair can take more heat.” I thought, “Didn’t you say earlier that I had soft, fine hair that didn’t need that much heat?” I knew I should have asked that question before she even put the flat iron in my hair the first time, so that one was on me.

My Conclusions
Ultimately, my hair turned out great. It was flowy and soft, straight, but full of body. The service was quick in every way (from the availability of an appointment, to the service beginning, to the time it took to complete), the salon was clean, good products were used, the employees were professional and the price very reasonable.

That being said, although all turned out well, I have become so anal about my hair anymore that I think that the next time I go straight, I’ll do it myself. I wasn’t a fan of the way that my hair was combed and think the heat used was too high. If I just prepped my hair like I did for my blow-out in November, I think I could go straight to the flat-iron and do a decent job. Or, I might just do a roller set like so many seem to do successfully (yes, you Elise and Sham;). So, you know, in another year or so, I’ll give it a whirl;). Now, I’m keeping my fingers crossed that the 450º flat-iron didn’t cause any heat damage and my curls will return with no problem on my next wash day!!

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When was the last time you straightened your hair? How did/do you maintain it? Did/do your curls bounce back your next wash day?

Feb6

ApHogee & Me: My 1st Two-Step Protein Treatment

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ApHogee & Me: My 1st Two-Step Protein Treatment

It was midnight, so I was a bit oily and tired!

I did it! On Saturday, I decided to venture into the world of heavy duty protein and do my first ApHogee Two-Step Protein Treatment. Read on to find out if there will a second ;) .

As many of you know, back in October, I began to notice an increase in breakage and was suffering from what I believe was an excessive amount of shedding. It hit me that the length of my hair was getting plenty of moisture, but nothing to strengthen it as I was doing roots only henna applications and didn’t use protein conditioners/treatments. So, after a little research and reading articles on the use of protein like this one on the Science of Black Hair and this one by Chicoro, I decided to dip my toes into the water. Now, I had to decide on what protein treatment to use. I read a lot of good things about the ApHogee Two-Step treatment. However, given that I was new to the protein game and the process for the two-step was a little intimidating, I decided to start with a light treatment and selected the ApHogee 2 Minute Keratin Reconstructor.

When that went well (see my full review here), I continued to use it about every other wash until I got Afro Puffy Twists on 11/30/11. The last time I used it was on 11/29, when I prepared my hair for the twists. So, it had been about 8 weeks since my last protein treatment and I felt like it was time for another one. I figured, I’ve given my hair some time to “breathe” and recuperate after the stress of the twists take down, so now was as good a time as any to take this more “aggressive” prophylactic measure.

My Process:

I was nervous because I read things like, “Don’t touch your hair once the treatment hardens, or it’ll break right off,” and I thought, “Well how am I gonna rinse this mess out if I can’t touch it?!” But, I then I saw that warning tempered with the advice that you just can’t agitate the hair and should be very careful when it’s in a dried state. I watched a couple of videos, read a few reviews and finally opted on following Chicoro’s technique, for the most part. In Grow It!, she provides some steps for doing a heavy duty treatment, which requires heat to harden it and bind the protein to the hair. The step that was most important for me was that she recommends placing the hair in twists throughout the process, whereas all the other reviews and videos I watched were with loose, sectioned hair.

So, here is what I did:

  1. Pre-pooed and finger detangled with Vatika oil/EVOO mix, placing hair into 6 twists total (slept in pre-poo overnight).
  2. Washed hair in twists with Shea Moisture Raw Shea Moisture Retention and Ion Curl Solution shampoos diluted in water and applied with a dye applicator bottle (I used the SM because of the moisture it offers and the Ion as it has sulfates to help clarify my hair for the protein treatment).
  3. Poured ApHogee into a spray bottle for ease of application and added 4 drops of lavender essential oil to help mask the smell.
  4. Untwisted one twist at a time, saturating each section with treatment, squishing it through the hair and retwisting. Repeated until all 6 twists were treated.
  5. Secured twists on top of my head into a high pontytail with a stocking.
  6. Dried under medium heat, high air flow. I started under my bonnet dryer, but became nervous as the bonnet was resting on my hair and I thought, “What will happen if it dries stuck to my hair and then I try to remove it?!” So, I finished the job with a hand held blow dryer. Most of my hair remained stationary. But the ends of two twists were moving when I directed the air at them. So, I gently cupped them in my hand as I dried them. (10-15 min.)
  7. Re-wet twists by spritzing them with water from the spray bottle. This removed the hardness from the hair prior to rinsing.
  8. Rinsed in sink using warm water from the faucet first, then using the sprayer to finish the job. (Approx. 8 min.)
  9. Untwisted one twist at a time, saturating each section with ApHogee Balancing Moisturizer, squishing it through the hair and retwisting. Repeated until all twists were treated. (Left in hair for about 5 min.)
  10. Rinsed Balancing Moisturizer in sink under warm water.
  11. Mixed deep conditoner: Darcy Botanicals Pumpkin Seed Conditioner, approx. 1 tsp. each of honey, EVOO and hazelnut oil.
  12. Untwisted one twist at a time, saturating each section with deep conditioner, squishing it through the hair and retwisting. Repeated until all twists were treated and secured twists at crown with jaw clip.
  13. Donned plastic cap and sat under bonnet dryer with medium heat (1 hour), then cooled (15 min.).
  14. Hopped in the shower to do a conditioner rinse (Aussie Moist diluted in water) and then finger detangled, twist by released twist adding extra conditioner (Aussie Moist) as needed. Followed finger detangle with wide-tooth shower comb and retwisted each section.
  15. Rinsed with cold water under tub faucet.
  16. Applied modified kimmaytube leave-in (2 tbsp KCKT, 2 tbsp aloe vera juice, 2 tsp of jojoba oil) to each twist and retwisted for a modified WnG.

Note: I taped several steps in the process and am working on editing the videos into one video to post later this week.

My Review and Results

I went into this like it was a henna treatment. In other words, I knew that it would be messy, so I was prepared. I took out all of my supplies, donned my bleached up, black henna tee, put towels on my couch (thanks for the warning Sham ;) ) and had the dryer set-up and ready to go! I knew that this stuff would stink … I read, “rancid trash,” “butt,” “animal feces” during my research … I liken it to toe jam or belly button lint. Umm hmm … yeah, not pleasant. So, I tried to ameliorate the smell a bit with the lavender oil. It still stunk, but it wasn’t as bad as I expected.

However, it was very sticky and dripped everywhere, even with using a spray bottle. I had it all over my arms, face and neck. And, when I rinsed, it got in my eyes and that was NOT pleasant!! But, it didn’t blind me. When it came to drying the product in my hair, it went okay, but I do wish that I had a hard bonnet dryer as it would have made it easier.

In regard to the results, my hair immediately felt heavier and harder after rinsing the protein treatment. It’s too early for me to determine if my breakage is eliminated as I did see a strand or two that were broken after the final rinse. But my hair definitely feels stronger and very elastic. It felt GREAT, very springy and lush. I also haven’t experience any dryness yet, which I’m sure is due to the good deep conditioning that I gave my hair after the treatment and the kimmaytube leave-in. I also sealed the last 6 inches or so of my hair with my JBCO/EVOO mix before putting it into 5 twists for bed last night. It felt good Sunday and I’ll keep an eye on my lost hair and the moisture level over the upcoming week.

Initial Conclusions:
As of Sunday night, I’m definitely thinking that I’ll be incorporating a heavy duty protein treatment into my regimen as a pro-active and preventative measure. For now, I’m thinking once every 6-8 weeks or so. But, I’ll pay attention to my hair and if it seems that it’s not necessary, I’ll stretch it.

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Have/do you use the ApHogee Two Step Treatment? If so, how did/do you like it? What’s your process? If you use a different intense protein treatment, which one do you use? Why do you prefer it?

Feb3

ApHogee Two Step Protein Treatment: Application

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ApHogee Two Step Protein Treatment: Application

Let the research begin!!

I’m planning on going for it this weekend! I want to make certain that I have plenty of time, so I think I’ll do the ApHogee Two- Step Protein Treatment this Sunday as I’m feeling tired right now and have plans for Saturday. I hit Sally’s right after work as I was afraid that the single application packet that I’d already purchased a few weeks ago might not be enough to cover my hair. I would totally FREAK out if I ran out mid-process. So, I ended up getting the big 16 ounce bottle of the step one protein treatment as there was a sale which included the 8 ounce bottle of the Balancing Moisturizer for FREE!! I figure, better safe than sorry. If I hate it, I’ll just return the products to Sally’s.

Anywho, I sniffed the protein treatment given all of the comments/reviews about how disgusting this stuff smells. At first, it didn’t seem too bad. But then I took a bigger whiff and I think I smell what people mean … a full head of this stuff probably won’t be too pleasant. I can’t find anyone who has added EO to it. But, I’m going to add a drop of oil (maybe lavender) to a small amount  and see if it helps mask the smell or makes it worse. I’ve decided to use a spray applicator bottle to make the application process go more smoothly and I’m hoping that I can just put my bonnet dryer over my head without cinching it at all to dry the treatment. I’d hate to have to use the hand held dryer! But, I’m thinking, my hair may be hanging down my back and I may have to use the bonnet and hand held dryer!! Ugh!!! Time for some more research!! I think Chicoro covers the process in Grow It! I know ShamIAmGlam makes a “protein cocktail” with the treatment by mixing it with a regular conditioner, so I’m going to check out her video on that too!, So, here I go!!

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Do you use the ApHogee Two Step Treatment? Any advice for a first-timer? How do I make this process as smooth and successful as possible?!

Dec19

The Power of pH

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The Power of pH

WnG w/Kimmaytube leave-in (July/Aug)

Tips & Tricks Number Twelve

A little while ago, someone mentioned to me that Kimmaytube did a video regarding controlling her hairstyle with pH balance. She demonstrated how she obtained curlier, more defined hair when using her pH balanced products and fluffier, bigger, less defined hair when using products with a pH closer to neutral. I wanted to share her video with all of you.

Several months ago, I noticed the difference in my hair when using Kimmaytube (KT) leave-in versus DevaCare One conditioner as well. Regardless of whether I did a WnG or a twist-out, I got fluffier, bigger hair when I used DevaCare One, which I loved. However, this also meant frizzier and less-defined hair. However, I didn’t mind because it contributed to the “bigness.” And so, I kept using DevaCare as my leave-in. Plus, it meant I could be lazy and not bother with making the KT leave-in. The piper came a’calling though y’all. You see, I think the level of frizziness was progressive and cumulative! When I looked back over my WnGs over the last few months and, specifically, at the pictures where I used DevaCare One with JessiCurl Confident Coils (JC CC) versus KT leave-in with JC CC, the appearance of the style has deteriorated.

WnG w/DevaCare One (mid-July)

WnG with DevaCare One (Aug)

WnG w/DevaCare One Conditioner (Oct)

I think that my ends may have also suffered from not receiving the cuticle closing power of the pH balanced leave-in. Therefore, I am now TOTALLY sold on pH and the KT leave-in. It has officially become one of my Holy Grails. Though I may use DevaCare One on occasion, it will be with far less frequency now and KT will definitely be my primary leave-in, for loose hair as well as for my Afro Puffy Twists.

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Have you experienced the Power of pH?

Dec5

My Winter Afro Puffy Twists Regimen

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My Winter Afro Puffy Twists Regimen

First things first, last week was horrendous for me diet wise. I was very stressed and I allowed it to cause me to stress eat, resulting in multiple fast food meals despite the fact that I re-stocked on my Lean Cuisines, fresh fruit, frozen veggies and yogurt last week. I also was drinking several cups of coffee and not enough water and failed to exercise, yet again. Finally, for the first time since December of last year, I went to bed without taking my vitamins/supplements … and, on multiple occasions (maybe 3)!! This cannot continue as it has an impact on my energy levels, feeling of well-being and my hair! So, Sunday morning, I went to hot yoga and am going again tonight. I was on the floor half of the class, but it was better to be there sweating and doing half the class than sitting on my butt at home. So, time to get back to The Rules.

On to hair. Okay y’all, I have some serious HIH (Hands in Hair) syndrome since I got these twists!! I keep wanting to play in them and try different styles!

Me likey, but NO BUENO! LOL! So, anyway, I love them and I also received a lot of compliments at work! Everyone is stunned by how light, soft and fluffy they are despite looking thick and heavy. I would definitely recommend this hair to anyone contemplating getting “kinky” twists. At $10 a pop, it is a lot more expensive than the Marley braid or kanekalon hair that you can probably get for as low as a $1.50 a bag. However, for me, it was worth it as they are so natural looking and light and don’t make my head hurt from the weight.

So, about my regimen, of course it has to be altered for the two months that I have these twists. I quickly realized last week that I must not forget that my hair, though somewhat protected, is in these twists. Therefore, I must handle them with the same care that I would if they were just my hair. I was finger combing through the twists after spritzing with Sally’s GVP Infusium 23 and feeling/hearing the individual strands pulling and tearing apart. Though I suspect that a lot of that was the synthetic hair, I really can’t tell the difference between it and the real deal. So, I knew I needed to start being far more gentle or risk the very manipulation damage that I got the twists to avoid.

My plan for my twist regimen is as follows:

  • Shampoo with a diluted shampoo (bi-weekly). I think that I’ll be revisiting the SheaMoisture Raw Shea Moisture Retention shampoo for this.
  • Use cotton swabs and witch hazel to cleanse scalp in between wash sessions, as needed (this will be based upon how my scalp feels and how often I’m doing hot yoga). For hot yoga on Sunday, I placed my hair in 7 twists, secured the ends to the crown of my head with mini jaw clips and then donned my Dri Sweat Edge headband. This worked well to keep the twists off of my neck and face, but kept the hair flat enough for me to lay on my back comfortably (even though it may not look like it ;) ).
  • Deep condition with heat (bi-weekly).
  • Apply Kimmaytube leave-in conditioner (original recipe, with JBCO instead of regular castor oil) after thoroughly rinsing shampoo.
  • Seal with EVOO or EVOO/JBCO mix.
  • Moisturize with diluted Kimmaytube leave-in using a spray bottle and seal with EVOO or EVOO/JBCO mix (as needed, every 2-3 days).
  • Apply and massage essential oil mix into scalp (daily).
  • I just got my heat wrap from Curlmart last week and used it for about 20 minutes after moisturizing the twists and oiling my scalp to help the oil penetrate. I really liked that and think I may do it once a week.
  • Protect with satin pocket bonnet at bedtime.

So, that’s the plan. I was going to use the African Pride Olive Miracle Braid Sheen Spray, which I got as a freebie earlier in the year, as a daily moisturizer. It would have been cheaper and easier than the Kimmaytube leave-in. However, glycerine is the third ingredient, so that’s a no-go for winter. I may look around for another daily moisturizer and the regular African Pride Braid Sheen Spray may have potential. It has glycerine in it, but way down on the list of ingredients. The thing is, I’d like to use natural products and may try the Aloe Gro recipe that Her Best Hair posted about here. I read about this moisturizer on her site last year, but hadn’t gotten around to buying the EOs (sage, eucalyptus and peppermint) to try it. So, I may hit up out my local natural food store this weekend to see if they have these EOs and give it a whirl.

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Welp, that’s it on the homefront. What’s up with you guys? Anything new? Sticking with the tried and true? I’d love to hear from all of you! 

Nov29

Operation Blow-Out: Mission Accomplished

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Operation Blow-Out: Mission Accomplished

It was a success! At least, in my eyes it was:). I’ll admit, I thought that my hair would be straighter and even contemplated getting my comb attachment with the broken teeth out of the donation bag in the car (hmmm, now that I think about it, pretty sure I threw it in the trash while cleaning the house yesterday. Given its damaged state, that would make sense ;) ). However, as this was my first time attempting the tension technique blow-out and I wasn’t going for bone straight … yeah, this will work!!

So, I’ll give you a recap of my prep, which I outlined yesterday in Countdown to a Blow-Out:

  • Cleanse thoroughly with a diluted sulfate shampoo (clarify)
  • Apply ApHogee 2 Minute Keratin Reconstructor (strengthen)
  • Deep condition with cool & seal technique (moisture)
  • Thoroughly rinse with cool/cold water
  • Section hair into 6 sections (2 in back and 1 in front on each side)
  • Apply Roux Fermodyl 619 to each section using spray bottle (porosity corrector/detangler/leave-in)
  • Apply small amount of GVP Potion #9 to each section (moisture and wearable treatment/styler)
  • Apply Aveda Brilliant Damage Control to each section (heat protection)
  • For each of prior 3 steps, comb hair with fingers, then wide tooth comb, then medium tooth comb (detangling)
  • Comb through each section with fine-tooth comb and set hair in 6 twists total
  • Secure roots with large doobie pins and roll ends on medium/large purple flexi-rods

After I finished that last step, I tied on a hair net, then a bonnet and hit the sack. I had to drive for about 2 hours to my home office and allowed my twists to dry further during the commute. When I arrived at the office, I pulled them back with a ponytail holder and folded them up into a twisted bun for the workday.

In the evening, I began the blow-out process. My initial plan was to dampen each section with a little more Aveda Damage Control, diluted at a 1:4 ratio with distilled water in a small spray bottle, then blow dry. However, after the first couple of sections, I realized that it was making my hands and hair sticky. So, I just began to dampen my hands with water, smooth them along the section I was working and then blow dry. All in all, I think that the product combination worked very well. The thing with blow-outs and flat-ironing is that I think you almost want your hair to feel naked as oils, butters and creams will weigh it down and make it greasy. My hair felt “clean” of this type of weight and sturdy. I think that I could have gone directly to a pressing comb or flat-iron if it had been my goal to wear my hair straight. And, if I ever want to do that, I will definitely follow all of the steps above and use the same products (with no need for a blow-out). So, that was definitely a learning for me.

Back to the blow-out. I worked my hair in sections using the twists as my guides. I used the concentrator attachment, the medium heat setting and  high speed. I broke each twist into 3 or 4 sections total for the process. Once I dried a couple of sections, I smoothed an itty, bitty smidgen of Carol’s Daughter Healthy Hair Butter (CD HHB) down the hair and then moved to the next section. It took me about 2 1/2 hours to finish the blow-out. But, I was stopping to take pictures, flat iron a section, rubber-band sections, etc. I was definitely taking my time. I realized two things as I worked. First, it was better to tilt the concentrator in a downward angle (towards the ends of the hair) while drying as it made the hair lay smoother (versus pointing the concentrator in a straight 90º angle at hair). Second, I realized that I should use the “cool blast” on the dryer after getting hair to the straightness that I wanted, in order to set it.

Now, I’ll give a brief review of the new products, tools and techniques.

Conair Infiniti Tourmaline Ceramic Ionic Styler 223X: I really liked this dryer! It was lightweight and easy to handle. There is nothing worse than a cumbersome hair tool and I didn’t have any problem with maneuvering this dryer. The medium heat setting was warm without being hot. The buttons were secure so that I wasn’t changing settings as I was trying to dry my hair (I had that problem with my old Ion dryer). The location/placement of the “cool shot” button was intuitive, so it was very easy to use. Oh, and did I mention? This dryer has a cord-keeper! So, the majority of the cord whips right on up into the dryer handle, making it a breeze to store without using rubberbands or twistie ties. And, you know how cords become all twisted around other articles or on themselves, damaging the inner wires? Yup, don’t think that will be a problem here! I will say this though, the cord is rather short. So, that might be a concern for some who need more “range of motion” based upon their drying location of choice.

Roux Fermodyl 619, GVP Sebastian Potion #9 and Aveda Brilliant Damage Control : I grouped these all together as I can’t really differentiate too much between what did what. So, I will defer to MopTopMaven’s previously proffered explanation of each product’s benefits as she outlined here. I used them in the same order that she did and as I’ve listed them here. I used one vial of the Fermodyle 619 and then applied a hazelnut-sized dot of the GVP Potion #9 to each of the 6 twists. Finally, I sprayed about 5-6 spritzes of the Aveda Damage Control on each section. So, although this may seem like a lot of product, it really wasn’t. I made sure not to go heavy on anything, which is why I combed through each product, to ensure more even and thorough distribution. Again, my hair felt clean, crisp and sturdy during the blow-out process. It wasn’t gunky when dried and my hair was “floaty.” I think I would have gotten very nice results if I’d gone directly to flat-ironing my hair with these products. However, as that wasn’t the plan, I blow dried and then added the smallest amount of CD’s HHB, to smooth it and provide the tiniest bit of moisture, making certain not to overdo it. As I’m getting my hair twisted, I know it has to feel pretty product-less and that was what I was going for here and believe I achieved.

Conair Ceramic Comb: So, I got this comb to round out the ceramic tools;). The medium-tooth side and parter tooth worked great. The fine-tooth side? Not so much. But, that was okay as I had my rattail comb that worked very well to finish the job.

Tension method: I don’t believe I perfected this ;) , however it turned out pretty nicely for my first go at it, I think. I do know that despite the fact that the technique involves the word tension, it caused far less of that on my hair than the comb attachment would have. I was pleased that the only hair that I seemed to lose appeared to be shed hair. I was also satisfied that it was a pretty easy process. It was time-consuming, but I think that was only because it was my first time and I  was doing other things. I definitely don’t think that it would take any longer than using the comb attachment for someone who’s done it a few times. So, the tension method gets the thumbs up!

To wrap this up, I put a few drops of my Essential Oil Mix on my fingertips and massaged it into my scalp. Then, I put my hair into one big braid down the back (secured at the end with a silicone elastic) and donned one of my satin scarfs to hit the sack.

Welp, that’s it! I’ll share a few more pics of the finished blow-out … and a pic of a section that I carefully flat-ironed to see the “true” length.

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I really do feel rewarded for my diligence, because this is the longest that my hair has ever been in my life. And, to tell you the truth, it’s really not all that hard or time-consuming. I spend far more time working on the blog then I do on my hair. However, that being said, I can NOT wait for Wednesday. Why? Because I’ll be in a full set of Afro puffy twists, which will make my day to day styling so much easier … no bad hair days! No wet twists! No failed TnCs. Yea! Just ready for a little break! But don’t worry, I’ll still be playing around with styles and will be doing a post on winter protective styling options and care tips too! Check ya lata gatas!!

Nov28

Countdown to a Blow-Out

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Countdown to a Blow-Out

I was a busy little bee this weekend, hitting three different stores (one twice), in order to get the items I needed for my impending blow-out. I made the appointment for my Afro puffy twists for this week and I was finally faced with the fact that I needed to make some decisions about my hair prep. I read CurlyNikki’s post on Flat Ironing Tips and recognized the importance of the right products, good techniques and the proper tools. I’d been ruminating over what heat protectant to use and whether I would use a blow dryer, use a comb attachment, try the tension method, braid, twist or attempt a roller set to stretch … decisions, decisions! The initial plan was to use the ElastaQP Silk Design Silk Thermal Styling Spray I already have under the sink and the Ion blow dryer and a comb attachment that I haven’t used since President Obama was inaugurated three years ago! However, as I thought about it and how I’m so much more aware of the potential for heat damage and have so many resources at my fingertips, I realized that I could do better.

So, I proceeded to do some research while standing in Harmon in front of 4 shelves full of hair dryers (I know you shouldn’t love an inanimate object. I know this. But, I love my iPhone). I googled my Ion blow dryer because I had no memory of whether it was tourmaline or ceramic or ionic (Ion … yeah, probably that last one) or some combination thereof. Well, in my search, I came across this very informative (though somewhat discouraging) article on the “benefits” of “hi-tech” hair dryers:

via Consumer Search:

Today’s blowers offer a bounty of options, all promising softer, shiner, healthier hair. It’s hard to find a hair dryer without the words “ceramic,” “ionic” or “tourmaline” in the name, but critics are unsure whether these features actually make for a better dryer or not.

Ionic hair dryers emit molecules with a positive or negative charge to dry hair. Instead of taking the air from a room and heating it like old-school hair dryers, ionic products use negative ions to shrink water droplets in the hair. Manufacturers say this helps wet hair dry faster with less heat damage — making for a smoother and shinier mane. Unfortunately, the science behind the claims is sketchy. There’s “little science to either prove or disprove this claim,” says Bill Nazaroff, professor of environmental engineering at the University of California at Berkeley, in a Wall Street Journal article.

The article goes on to say that though manufacturers tout that dryers using ceramic, ionic or tourmaline technologies result in speedier drying times, shinier hair and less heat damage, there isn’t much scientific evidence to support these claims. Regardless, and helpfully, the article didn’t discount these features entirely. Rather, additional research was conducted based upon professional and consumer reviews found via various sources. This information was used to compile a list of the Best Hair Dryers with these “high tech features” and ranked them from the most economical choices to the more expensive:

  1. Revlon RV544 Tourmaline Ionic hair dryer (Approx. $20)
  2. Conair Infiniti Tourmaline Ceramic Ionic Styler 223X (Approx. $35)
  3. Conair Infiniti Professional Tourmaline Ceramic Ionic Styler 213X (Approx. $35)
  4. T3 Tourmaline Professional Featherweight(Approx. $175)
  5. Featherweight Luxe (Approx. $250)
  6. CHI Rocket Professional (Approx. $135)
  7. CHI Nano Dual Air Flow Ceramic (Approx. $140)
  8. Elchim 2001 Professional(Approx. $120)
  9. Sedu Ultrapower Professional (Approx. $150)

The awesome, but horrible thing? Almost every single one of these dryers was on the shelves at Harmon!! LOL! Ultimately, I decided on #2 as it was very reasonably priced, apparently effective and I liked the style. Consumer Search had this to say about it:

The … Conair Infinit Tourmaline Ceramic Ionic Styler 223X has been named an InStyle Magazine Best Beauty Buy three years in a row (though we aren’t sure what criteria are used in awarding that status). It offers some of the same features found in many higher-priced blow dryers. It includes three heat settings and two speed settings as well as a cool-shot button; a soft finger diffuser, which allows you to get closer to the scalp for better hair-sculpting control; and a concentrator attachment, which is designed to direct airflow for styling purposes. The Conair 223X also has a removable filter to prevent lint build-up and comes with a three-year limited warranty.

The reason that I was at one store twice? I ran home to get about four 20% off coupons for Bed, Bath and Beyond (you can use these at Harmon!!) and one $5 coupon for Harmon as I was having a PJ moment and picked up several hair and make-up items too (you can thank ShamIAmGlam for fanning the make-up PJ flames;).

Ultimately, I only paid $28 (plus tax) for the dryer. Score!! I also picked up the “ionic” comb as I needed a medium-tooth comb for detangling. So, what was next? Research on a good heat protectant. Again, I was initially planning on using the ElastaQP Thermal Design Spray that I already owned and some grapeseed oil, which some tout as a natural heat protectant because it can sustain heat up to 420°. Then, I thought about someone who regularly rocked gorgeous straight hair during the winter. MopTopMaven!! I remember reading several posts from her last year and commenced to searching. I came across four really good articles that she did on straightening hair and one that was specific to blow drying natural hair.

via MopTopMaven:

Going Straight for Winter

6 Techniques for Easy Breezy Blow Drying

How to Prevent/Recover from Heat Damage

Help My Pressed Hair Never Stays Straight

As the search for a good heat protectant was what prompted my search, I was particularly interested in Mop Top Maven’s recommendation on this front. I hit pay dirt with her article, Going Straight for Winter, as she outlined every product in her straight hair regimen. When I read that she loved Aveda Brilliant Damage Control as her heat protectant, I knew that was it as I always read great things about this line and knew of a local salon that carries it. So I headed over and picked it up … along with the CurlyNikki approved Brilliant Anti-Humectant Pomade (I couldn’t resist even though I’ll have no use for it until Spring!!).

Back to the product search. Also in MopTopMaven’s straight hair product line-up were Fermodyl 619 (leave-in) and Sebastian Potion #9 (leave-in/styler). I decided to hit Sally’s as I knew that they had a GVP version of Potion #9 and thought that I’d seen the Fermodyl there before as well. Sure enough, I hit the mother-load here too and picked up both items.

So now, I feel that I am thoroughly prepared with both products, techniques and tools. My blow-out regimen will be as follows:

  • Cleanse thoroughly with a diluted sulfate shampoo (clarify)
  • Apply ApHogee 2 Minute Keratin Reconstructor (strengthen)
  • Deep condition with cool & seal technique (moisture)
  • Thoroughly rinse with cool/cold water
  • Section hair into 6 sections (2 in back and 1 in front on each side)
  • Apply Roux Fermodyl 619 to each section using spray bottle (porosity corrector/detangler/leave-in)
  • Apply small amount of GVP Potion #9 to each section (moisture and wearable treatment/styler)
  • Apply Aveda Brilliant Damage Control to each section (heat protection)
  • For each of prior 3 steps, comb hair with fingers, then wide tooth comb, then medium tooth comb (detangling)
  • Comb through each section with fine-tooth comb and set hair in 6 twists total
  • Secure roots with large doobie pins and roll ends on medium/large purple flexi-rods
  • Use tension method to blow dry hair to stretched state

I plan on doing this over the course of two days and completed all but the last step on Sunday night. I may have to dampen my hair slightly to do a blow out to stretch it further. However, knowing my hair, it might not be entirely dry, even after a full 24 hours! So, we’ll see if the wetting step is necessary.

And that’s that. It was a lot of research and store hopping, but I feel a lot more confident that I can do this without causing appreciable heat or manipulation damage. I’ll keep you all apprised of the final results and will have those product reviews for you too! Go team natural ;) !!

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How do you protect your hair during heat styling? What products, techniques and tools do you use?

Nov10

Protein Convert Over Here!

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Protein Convert Over Here!

Yup, it’s true. I am a believer now. My hair feels so much stronger and the shedding has decreased drastically. Literally, I had my hair down a few weeks back when I went to work, and had hair coming out left and right. It was never-ending and I knew it just wasn’t normal as I couldn’t touch my hair without pulling away multiple strands of shed hair (and they were sheds, I inspect for the bulb;).

Now, after two ApHogee 2 Minute Keratin Reconstructor treatments (see my review here), I may lose 2 or 3 strands when I take down my updos at night. I just wish that I had learned how to properly use protein sooner as I might have kept a lot more hair on my head! Hindsight is 20/20, right?

Anywho, I’m doing some research now as I’ve yet to find any scientific evidence to support that OVER-moisturized hair could result in excessive shedding. However, I know my own head of hair, and I know that my shedding decreased after the protein treatments. I also know that my hair was feeling very soft and now it feels stronger and able to withstand manipulation a lot better. I even noticed that my hair isn’t snagging on my brush when I’m smoothing my edges like it was immediately prior to the treatments. So, I’m wondering if there is an ingredient (or ingredients) in ApHogee, other than protein, that could be responsible for this effect? The bottle did indicate that it soothes an irritated scalp. As an irritated scalp can result in excessive shedding and this treatment is touted to have something to combat that, that is where I’ll be directing my “research” and investigative skills. I found this thread on Long Hair Care Forum that poses the question, does OVER moisturized hair cause excessive shedding and does protein help stop shedding? The overwhelming consensus seems to be that there is no scientific evidence to support this premise … and some even call it ludicrous, essentially. Therefore, I think I’ll direct my search more towards how protein or other ingredients in this particular ApHogee treatment may affect the scalp. My logic leads me to hypothesize that something is causing the scalp to tighten around the follicle, whether it is somehow due to clarification of product residue, “hard” water and/or hardening of the hair strand. So, I’ll have to see if I can find anything to prove (or disprove) this theory.

Things that make you go, “Hmmmmmm … .”

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Do you use protein conditioning treatments? If so, which one(s)? Do you notice a decrease in shedding (differentiate from decrease in breakage) after use? 

(I’m hoping to be able to identify some common ingredients in protein treatments that appear to reduce shedding to further focus my research! So, thanks for any and all feedback!)